Learning pattern making

My dream is to draft my own patterns rather than spending hours trying to get a commercial pattern to fit me.

Enter Sarah of Workspace Fashion and Design Studio.

Sarah was the magician, who wrapped me up in duct tape for the dress form. She helped me create a bodice and sleeve block and now she is teaching me how to draft patterns using my personal blocks.

 

We have spent a lot of time playing with paper and Sarah taught me how to rotate darts and how to create a lot of different designs simply by manipulating the darts.

It is so much fun!

We have also looked at contouring and my bodice block now have all the contour lines for future reference, like avoiding gaposis on necklines or creating more fitted designs.

These lines helped us design a fitted bust section for the cover for my dress form.

 

Today we made a half scale pattern for a dress I would like to make. It is loosely based on a sketch I have seen on the internet. This is the result made up in paper and pinned to Sarah’s half scale dress form.

 

I feel happy with the result and my next challenge is now to make the pattern using my blocks, and of course then make it up. This may take me a while, but I’m really excited about it all.

By the way, I totally love the half scale dress form for trying out a pattern or a design before committing and using a lot of paper testing various options in full scale.

They are so cute 🙂

Did you notice the pretty pale blue corset in the background? Sarah runs classes teaching corset making. Can you be too old for pretty corsets such as that one? It would certainly help to keep some of my extra ‘fluff’ under control.

I think I will enroll in her next term of classes. It will be a lot of fun, and who knows, my husband might even approve of such pretty underthings. 🙂

 

 

‘Couture’ Jeans

Well…… maybe I am stretching it a bit calling it ‘couture’ as there is no hand stitching, and as to being classed as jeans? It can probably be debated too, but regardless, I am really happy with my creation.

 

I purchased the Kenneth D King Craftsy course on how to copy your favourite jeans. The sad thing is that I don’t have a favorite pair of jeans to copy, so I just watched the technique, and moved on.

Recently, I learnt how to draft my own torso block pattern at Workspace Fashion and Design School. I already had Winifred Aldrich’s book ‘Metric pattern cutting for women’s wear’, but never had any success drafting my own torso pattern, so the book was put away on top shelf.

 

I decided to try drafting my own skirt block using the book and what Sarah had taught me. I took my own measurements as that is relatively easy on the lower half of the body……. It seemed to fit really well!

Next I tried drafting The Classic Tailored Trouser Block, and again it seemed to fit. I took both my trial muslins along to my next class with Sarah, and she agreed. They fitted me, and no alterations were necessary!

Can you imagine how excited I was?

I was on a roll. Next I tried drafting The Very Close Fitting Trouser/Jean Block. A few minor corrections were necessary on this block, but I was able to do this myself.

Now the test. What would they be like made up in a fashion fabric? I had a cotton sateen sitting on my shelf and I had always wanted to use it for pants. But jeans? It did not have enough body for jeans and the fabric was prone to creasing. What if I underline the jeans? Ridiculous idea! People don’t underline jeans!

Well, I can do what I want to! ….. And I did!

I used tips gained from Kenneth D King’s class during the construction. The underlining is a light cotton shirting, and it is doing its job in preventing a lot of the creasing and the fabric now has a body and richness it didn’t have before. My jeans feel so luxurious to wear.

A few more photos, although it is hard to see the details in the dark and busy print.

 

 

Now I just need to make a new (many) top to wear with the jeans instead of this ten year old shirt. My wardrobe is seriously lacking ……. everything!