Chasing the perfect fit #1

I have been trying to achieve a fit that I can be proud of for many years. The difficulty I have is the reason that I have had many on and off again love affairs with my sewing machine. I am now retired and have more time. Therefore this is the time for me to overcome my fitting problems.

I expect it could be quite a journey, so I have labelled this post #1. Lets see if I can achieve, if not a perfect fit at least one that is acceptable – but of course I would love perfection – wouldn’t you?

I have been following many blogs over the last year and I have learnt so much from other people. Thank you everyone. I think I would have given up were it not for your amazing creativity and inspiration. Many of you have difficult fitting issues too, but you overcame those hurdles – congratulations! I want to get there too.

I saw Bunny of La Sewista! giving pants fitting a go using the Sure-fit Design system. I deeply admire Bunny’s creations, so when I saw she wanted to improve her pants fitting using SFD, I was sold. I ordered the three kit package – pants, dress and shirt.

I have now had a couple of days to work on my first muslins and I will post the pictures although such photos never look good, hopefully something can be learnt.

First the pants. I have achieved acceptable fit for jeans and stretchy pull on pants, but I want to make more dressy pants too.

P1050031P1050032P1050033

I emailed these exact photos to Glenda of SFD last night, and this morning I had the following answer (I also emailed other photos dealing with the bodice and skirt, and I will cover that in a separate post). I must say I am very impressed with her speedy reply and attention to my specific issues – thank you Glenda:

“I’ll address the pants first. Initially, you are off to a good start.  If these are supposed to be ‘regular’ pants vs. jeans fit – they are too tight.  Even though you are pretty straight from your waist down, you are getting drag lines toward your high hip and at the bottom of the back dart.  Go to the next size high hip dot, and you can test this by simply letting out the seam a little from the high to the low hip.  They are a little tight there too.

 

The back crotch needs to be scooped out and re-shaped.  If you have the new Jeans DVD this scooping is covered in the fitting section of the DVD.  If you don’t have that, watch this video – P.6.6 How To Refine the Back Crotch Fit for a Dropped Buttocks – Droopy Butt

 

Also, if that doesn’t eliminate all the folds under your butt, then you may want to consider doing this Fish Eye Dart for a Flat butt – P.6.5 Drawing a Fish-Eye Dart in Pants Back for a Flat Backside

 

Another reason why they are looking so bunchy in the leg is that the fabric looks to be a little stiff and you don’t have your hem in or the creases in place.  This all makes a difference to how that leg will look.  If you have the Pants Fitting Course on DVD, please watch that.”

I will now work on Glenda’s suggestions and follow-up with more photos when that is done.

Lene

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10 thoughts on “Chasing the perfect fit #1

  1. Take your time here. I know that frustration will creep in, but don’t loose hope. Remember that you are trying to fit yourself without assistance. You will go through a great deal of fabric to get the pattern that works for your body now. I don’t wear too many pants, and the ones I do wear tend to be quite loose, so fitting is not an issue for me. But Glenda’s suggestions are on the money… m.

    • Thanks Maria. I have spent all morning on fixing the muslin, but so far no joy. I don’t want to make a centre back seam which is part of what is being suggested.

  2. Thank you for this post – I hadn’t heard of SFD but have now had a good look at the link and am sharpening up my credit card!

  3. Hi Lene – even though pants are drafted to measurement, it does depend on measurement – and these are a little tight – don’t forget to also test any muslin by sitting down and making sure there is room for that. The common problems of baggy legs Glenda has told you about – evern with Surefit you still have to tweak, as I have learnt. As Maria said, this will take time – I’ve been playing with pants all year now, lots of my trial and error frustrations on view 🙂

    I will go back to SureFit in due course – it’s not perfect, but I want to play with it more. You do need to change the crotch curve – I have learnt that one – I think there are some good books about these alterations.

    • Thanks Sarah Liz. I spent hours yesterday trying to find the solution, but so far no luck. I have come to the same conclusion that there is something wrong with the crotch curve. I haven’t given up yet and I am currently researching everything I can get my hands on – even old trousers, but they don’t fit either, so they are not much help. The sad part about SFD is that my bodice fit is really horrible. I have got suggestions from Glenda, but haven’t tried any of them yet. Soldier on …….

  4. Wow! I am so glad I cam across your blog and this post! I did not explore the SFD so deeply – i am a new member 🙂 Your tips are great! I am working now on maybe 8th pants muslin. I am sure these 2 advises will help.
    I will check the SFD site (and Glands tips) more thoroughly!

    • Thank you so much for your enthusiastic comment. I wish I could say that I have achieved something since writing that post, but I really haven’t improved the pants by very much. I will do a follow up post in the next couple of days. However I haven’t yet made 8 Muslins 🙂

    • Thank you for all your comments. I have come some way further, but haven’t blogged as I find it so hard to get photographs worthy of showing. Anyway, I promise I will try. In the meantime, and to lift the mood after all those fitting problems, I made a couple of other things which I also want to blog about. Again photos are a problem.

      Sent from my iPad

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